![]() Metal precipitates form in the electrolyte. When a cell is discharged below its rated limit, It is ruined. You can go lower than 3 volts as the manufacturere's limit is lower, usually 2.2 - 2.5 volts, but never lower than the rated limit. The safe range of a lithium cell is between 3 and 4.2Volts. What you want to see is 3 to 4 volts across those cells. If so, then your voltage data says the battery is dead, with just a few tenths of a volt across each cell as you go right to left. Then you measured each island of metal going to the positive lead on the left side. Just to be sure, we understand your data, you kept the black probe on the most negative end of the battery cells on the right side of the pictures, not on the negative lead of the battery. How can I disassemble this further in a way that I can reassemble it later? The individual battery cells are not only welded to the strips on each side of them but are also glued to the battery holder. What are my options at this point? How can I check this battery further? Any link to video or text that would explain what needs to be done and how to test the battery would be useful. Can this be verified?Ĭan this BMS be reused if this temp sensor has gone bad? ![]() The one that came undone still has its 2 wires attached to each other, I think what came off was only the protection and the temp sensor itself is good. I think these are temp sensors and there were 3 of them. I took out anything that was glued to the battery and while doing that one of a pair of wires that was glued to the case of the batteries came undone as shown in the pictures. Once the battery was out I checked the voltage at the BMS. I opened the battery after it was out but had to heat the case to soften the double sided glue inside to be able to open the 2 halves of the battery. The second time I opened the lower compartment of the bicycle's frame and yanked on the cables the battery gradually came out. I thought of charging this one and then connecting it to the charge port of the iZip bike to see if the voltage of the iZip battery gets high enough for the charger to start charging. Is there anyway to try to get the battery charged without taking it out? I have another used weak battery 37V 14A. Is the charger dependent on a minimum voltage at the battery to turn on? The charger won't turn on and I suspect it is due to not enough voltage at the battery. The bike must have sat for a long time (at least 6 months but probably more than a year). The battery has about zero voltage measured at the charging port. I thought there surely must be an easier way to access it. Tried to access the battery from below the frame tube as shown in the pictures but not possible from what I see, unless everything is disconnected. If you can identify the model from the pictures please do so. Do Not Exceed 109kg or 240lbs Battery Typeġ4 +.How can the battery on iZip Metro be taken out?Īctually I am not sure of the model of the bike so pictures are enclosed. Power On/Off Switch on Back of Rack Easily access charger port in removable battery pack, ( Can Charge On or Off the bike) Twist Thumb Throttle with TAG (Twist & Go) Function & Battery Gauge Indicator for mounting on handlebar. Inner Tube and rim stop tape from your original bike Hub Spacing 135mm OLN (standard 7-speed) USER CONTROLS: ![]() Patented Currie Electro-Drive System, Combine with the Drive Train System from your standard bike. Easily Add Optional battery for extended Range. UL Listed Currie Smart Charger with LED Status Display CONTROLLER:Įxclusive Currie Electro-Drive 24 volt Fully Potted with Power Gauge Function TOP SPEED:ġ5+mph (Depending on Rider Weight) RANGE:ġ0 - 15 or More Miles /16-24 km with Normal Pedaling. Specification For The IZIP Conversion Kit MOTOR: >p>Rated motor from DC Earth magnet BATTERY:ĮV Rated SLA Type, Rear Rack Mounted, 24v/10Ah Pack, (Consisting of two 12v/10ah batteries) CHARGE SYSTEM: ![]()
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